Read these 7 Simmons Scopes Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Hunting Scopes tips and hundreds of other topics.
Assume we are shooting a rifle that is already correctly sighted in. When we put the rifle to our shoulder and line up the sights on the target, we are looking along the line of sight. This line is perfectly straight, as only light can be, and runs from our eye through the rear sight, then the front sight, then to the spot on the target we want to hit. Unfortunately, this doesn't coincide with the flight of the bullet or ball. Since the bore of the rifle is below the sights, the bullet starts out below the line of sight, crosses it traveling upward, stays above it for a time, then begins to fall downward, crossing the line of sight exactly at the target. Every shot we fire will travel this curving loop.
*The bullet will reach its maximum height above the line of sight at about 60% of the distance to the target, and this point is called the Mid-Range Trajectory. Once the bullet travels past the target, it will be below the line of sight until it stops, for whatever reason.
Before we get to the actual process of adjusting the sights to hit where you want, some decisions must be made.
• Where do you want it to hit?
• At what distance?
• Target shooting or hunting?
• Heavy load or light?
• What sight picture are you going to use, 6:00 o'clock hold or center hold?
These decisions must be made by each individual shooter, based upon what he needs the gun to do—be it bark a squirrel, knock down a moose, or punch holes in a paper target at close or long range.
The first thing you should know about cleaning a Simmons scope (or any rifle scope, for that matter) is: Do not use any type of glass or flat surface cleaner! DO NOT use finger nail polish remover or Windex! These types of cleaners could strip the multi-coatings clean off scope lenses. The makers of Simmons scopes recommend the following method, which is used by their factory technicians:
1. Go to any full-service drug store and buy a bottle of acetone.
2. Use a soft brush or forced air to remove dust or debris from the lens surface.
3. Take a cotton swab and dip into the acetone.
4. Start in the middle of the dust free lens with the damp swab
5. Move the swab in a circular motion working your way to the outside edge of the lens.
6. When a swab dries, discard it and continue with a fresh damp swab.
7. Repeat the use of damp swabs until the lens surface is clean.
*Here's a tip: If you don't have acetone, you might just be able to get by with plain water and a clean lint free cloth.
Spring-Piston airguns generate heavy recoil and vibration in both the forward and rearward directions. Most rimfire and centerfire riflescopes are made to withstand only the rearward recoil of these types of rifles.
Airgun scopes are made to withstand heavy bi-direction recoil and vibration. They typically also have parallax adjustment that allows closer focus. Typically these adjustments will allow focusing down to 10 yards. Recoil is typically not a problem with pneumatic airguns.
When you're into the rifle sighting process, you have to be careful to make changes in the sights only after having fired a number of shots, never a single one. Three shots are probably adequate—possibly even two (during the fairly rough, up-close work). As the range increases, though, groups of 5 shots are recommended (especially if the changes to the sights involve filing).
Let's assume you want the rifle sighted in to hit point of aim at 100 yards. Let's also assume you are sighting a new rifle, and don't know the sight settings. You have to come up with a way to get started, to get "on the paper". You could just put up a big piece of paper at 100 yards, fire a few shots at it and hope the bullets hit the paper. In this case, the sights could be adjusted to bring the shots directly on the bull. The only drawback to this method is that it involves a lot of walking.
In order to sight a rifle in properly, the rifle must shoot consistent, small groups. Yet, in order to develop an optimum load for the rifle, one which shoots consistent, small groups, it must be sighted in at least well enough to get on the paper. We compromise and do the best we can. Using manufacturer's recommendations, prior experience or advice from a knowledgeable friend, you must decide what initial load to shoot. Within reason, it really doesn't matter, but you must shoot that exact same load every time.
If you shoot one load and then another, you will never make sense of the sighting-in procedure. The load can be modified later, honed to the best you can work out, after you have the rifle shooting on the paper at that distance.
Before you sight your scope on your muzzleloader, you will need to do a little ballistics lesson. As you may know, the bullet from your muzzle loader crosses the line of sight the first time going upward. The point at which that first crossing takes place is, on average, roughly in the 10 - 15 yard range in front of the muzzle. For the sake of simplicity, split the difference, and place your target at 12 1/2 yards.
*Use a small bull or aiming point on a BIG piece of paper, and shoot from some kind of rest. You'll git 'er done in no time flat.